Lines 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 in Fig. 42 indicate where the material is to be placed for various operations, as follows:
Line 1 -- the correct position for the material to which the ruffled material is applied. Line 2 -- material to be ruffled. Line 3 -- the facing for the ruffle. Line 4 -- the strip of piping material. Line 5 -- the edge to be piped. Refer to Fig. 42 when inserting the material in the ruffler
The names and uses of the principal parts of the ruffler are as follows, see Fig. 42:
A -- FOOT -- the part by which the ruffler is attached to the presser bar.
B -- FORK ARM -- the section that must be placed astride the needle clamp.
C -- ADJUSTING SCREW -- the screw that regulates the fullness of the gather.
D -- PROJECTION -- the part that projects through the slots in the adjusting lever.
E -- ADJUSTING LEVER -- the lever that sets the ruffler for gathering or for making a plait once at every six inches or once at every twelve inches, as desired; also for disengaging the ruffler, when either plaiting or gathering is not desired.
F -- ADJUSTING FINGER -- the part which regulates the width or size of the plaits.
G -- SEPARATOR GUIDE -- the guide on the underside of the ruffler, containing slots into which the edge of the material is placed to keep the heading of the ruffle even; also for separating the material to be ruffled from the material to which the ruffle is to be attached.
H -- RUFFLING BLADE -- the upper blue steel blade with the teeth at the end to push the material in plaits up to the needle.
J -- SEPARATOR BLADE -- the lower blue steel blade without teeth, which prevents the teeth of the ruffling blade coming into contact with the feed of the machine or the material to which ruffle or plaiting is to be applied.
To Attach the Ruffler to the machine Raise the needle bar to its highest position and remove the presser foot. Attach the ruffler foot (A) to the presser bar from the right and fasten by means of the thumb screw, at the same time placing the fork arm (B) astride the needle clamp as shown in Fig. 43.
To Adjust the Ruffler for Gathering
The adjusting finger (F) is not intended for gathering and should be moved forward and away from the needle, as shown in Fig. 43.
Raise the adjusting lever (E) and move it to the left so that the projection (D) will enter the slot marked "1" in the adjusting lever (E) when the lever is released. The ruffling blade will then move forward and back once at every stitch. Insert the material to be ruffled between the two blue blades, following the line 2 in Fig. 42. Draw the material slightly back of the needle, lower the presser bar and commence to sew.
To make fine gathering, shorten the stroke of the ruffling blade by turning the adjusting screw (C) upward; also shorten the stitch. To make full gathering, lengthen the stroke of the ruffling blade by turning the adjusting screw (C) downward; also lengthen the stitch. By varying these adjustments, many pleasing varieties of work can be accomplished
To Make a Ruffle and Sewon a facing in One Operation
Insert the material to be ruffled between the two blue blades, following the line 2 (Fig. 42).
Place the garment to which the ruffle is to be attached under the separator blade, following the line 1 (Fig. 42). Place the material for thefacing over the upper blue blade, as shown
in Fig. 45, following the line 3 (Fig. 42). The facing may be straight or bias material. If thefacing is to be on the right side of the garment, place the garment and the ruffle so that the wrong sides are together. If the facing is to be on the wrong side, place the right sides of the garment and the ruffle together.
Piping a Ruffle
Insert the material to be ruffled between the two blue blades, following the line (Fig. 42). This material must not be over 1 1/4 inches wide, as it is carried through the ruffler with the finished edge of the ruffle to the right of the attachment as shown in Fig. 46. The material for piping must measure about 1/4 inch wide when folded in the centre and is usually cut on the bias. Place the piping material in the ruffler, following the line 4 (Fig. 42) with the folded edge of the piping to the right. The material to which the piping and ruffling are to be sewn should be folded on the edge and inserted in the ruffler, following the line 5 (Fig.4)
To Adjust the Ruffler for Plaiting
Raise the adjusting lever (E) and move it to the right so that the projection (D) will enter the slot marked "6" in the adjusting lever when the lever is released. The ruffling blade will then move forward and back once at every six stitches. To adjust the ruffling blade to make a plait once at every twelve inches, place the adjusting lever (E) so that the projection (D) enters the slot marked "12" in the adjusting lever. Insert the material to be plaited between the two blue blades, following the line 2 (Fig. 42). The size or width of plaits is regulated by the adjusting screw (C) and the adjusting finger (F, Fig. 47). To make a wider plait, move the adjusting finger (F) back or toward the needle and turn the adjusting screw (C) downward. To make a smaller plait, turn the adjusting screw (C) upward. The distance between plaits is regulated by the length of stitch.
To Adjust the Ruffler for Group Plaiting and Gathering
The ruffler can be adjusted for group plaiting by lifting the adjusting lever (E) and moving it to the right so that the top of the projection (D) enters
the small slot indicated by the star on the adjusting lever. This should be done at the points where you wish to make the space between the plaits. The ruffler will then stop and plain stitching will be made. When the desired space has been made, adjust the lever (E) so that the projection (D) enters either the slot marked "6" or the slot marked "12". By alternately making groups of plaits and plain spaces, as shown in Fig. 48, very attractive work can be produced.
To Oil the Ruffler
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to the working parts of the ruffler. After oiling, operate the ruffler on a waste piece of material to prevent the oil soiling the work. If the ruffler does not plait evenly, a drop of oil may remedy the trouble